グラッドニュースは渋谷109系ファッションの中でもバイカーズスタイルというワイルドなヤバカワ系で人気のブランドですが、レディスアイテムだけではなくメンズの方でもお兄系ファッションとしてバッファローボブスなどと共に人気を博しています。
レディースのヤバカワ系に相当するメンズのお兄系ファッションですが、グラッドニュースが軍隊ファッションやバイク乗りファッションをテーマにしているのに対し、バッファローボブスでは、アウトローのロックシーンなどをテーマにしているところが興味をそそります。
バッファローボブスを企画製造する株式会社ダブリューダブリューでは、エルビスプレスリーやラモーンズなど、その時代の反逆的ミュージシャンの名前を挙げ、若者達の心を掴んだそれまで時代の中で正統と呼ばれるものの対極に位置するカルチャーにスポットを当てています。
こうした異端のミュージシャンは若者を魅了し、その後次の時代の寵児となっていったわけで、ファッションでも常に影響を受けきました。
古着もそうですし、ヒップホップなどもそうでしょう。
いつの時代もアウトローたちが、新たなスタイルを開拓して、それをカッコいいものにしていったのです。
バッファローボブスが考えたのは、こうした大衆への反逆と信念を貫く姿勢であり、周囲から不良と呼ばれながらも、独自のスタイルを築いていくことにテーマを見出したわけです。
バッファローボブスは古着のセレクトショップから発展した会社で、ブランド創設から約10年で、ブランドとしてのイメージも定着させてきました。
いわば思想をファッションテーマにしているということで、グラッドニュースが具体的なシーンをベースにファッション化させてきたのとは対極的な感じすらするわけですが、この2つのメンズアイテムが渋谷109での人気ファッションとなっているのも面白い点ではないでしょうか。
但し、共通点もあります。それはどちらもヒントの背景がかなり古い時代に遡るという事で、バッファローボブスのエルビスプレスリーもそうですが、グラッドニュースのバイカーズスタイルも、もとは1950年代の映画「乱暴者」で若き日のマーロンブランドが演じた役でのファッションが起点だともいわれています。
又、1951年の映画「欲望という名の電車」では、今ではすっかりお馴染みのTシャツが初めてファッションアイテムとして認識されました。
従来ではTシャツは下着だったわけで、グラッドニュースの定番であるTシャツアイテムはこうした古いルーツを持っているのです。
時代はそこから50年以上も経過していますが、現代のメンズファッションの最先端にも、やはりこうしたオーセンティックな一面が含まれているのが興味深いところでもあります。
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